Tantalus:
Tantalizing menu offers choices galore
By Janice Okun / News Restaurant Reviewer
August 2010

(Out of four)

Wow — what a menu at Tantalus. It's not quite "War and Peace," perhaps, but by culinary standards, it might as well be. Everything from pasta and pizza and "flats" (open sandwiches on flat bread) to entrees to "not so traditional dinners" to "insider burgers" (stuffed). And, by the way, Thursday at Tantalus is "Mexican Day." Carne Asada, anyone ($15.95)? Our server swore that just about everything on the menu in this cavernous, noisy and yet somehow charming space is house-made.

The remarkable thing about this list is its variety. You will find traditional favorites here like N.Y. strip ($20.95) or a Grilled Salmon Fillet ($21.95). There's a Margherita Pizza ($14), but you'll also find an Italian "insider burger" with Cappicola, peppers and mozzarella ($11.95).

Not to mention a specials list that includes the likes of Cast Iron Chicken Steak (chicken breast, capers and pan ham gravy over mashed potatoes, $13.95).

My appetizer choice was certainly innovative. Think of the Round of Deep Fried Quail ($14.95) as an upscale version of chicken wings. Three crisply fried little birds accompanied by a Honey Dipping Sauce, the dish was happily shared by everyone at the table.

Someone else chose, from the specials list, Lapin LaSauce, Marchand de Vin ($19.95), which is nothing more than a farm-raised rabbit hind baked in a mushroom wine sauce. And pretty good, too.

Then there was the Companion's Ravioli in Spicy Tomato Sauce ($14.95) — as opposed, of course, to other ravioli on the menu — stuffed with ricotta and salmon or black beans and jalapeno, for instance.

Plus Spaghetti Puttanesca alla Neptune (calamari, mussels and shrimp, crushed tomatoes, capers, anchovies, olives and red pepper, topped with Parmesan, $18.50).

Down the hatch.

One quibble — another guest's Grilled Breast and Avocado Salad ($9.75) was a little long on the romaine hearts and a tad short on the interesting stuff, but the Gruyere and the ranch dressing added pizzazz.

There's a separate dessert menu that changes, we were told, from time to time. Heartily recommended is the Caramel Pecan Cake — white cake layered with caramel mousse and a pecan caramel frosting.

Unless, that is, you opt for the Lemon Marmalade Cake, the Chocolate Fudge Cake, or the highly brandied Tiramisu, or the carrot cake, or the coffee-infused cheesecake.

As I said at the top of this review — Wow!